A few words on Ardèche Department

Geography

The department of Ardèche is lengthened in a north-south direction as a triangle with its Eastern border lined with the Rhone river. Narrow plains spread out on the right bank and the land rises quite quickly westward. The tributaries of the Rhone flow eastward. They are the following rivers: Cance, Doux, Eyrieux, and Ardèche. Between these rivers, mountains and plateaus are the result of the surrection of Central Massif. The highest point reaches 1754 m at Mont Mézenc, whereas the lowest point is only 40 m. Such a difference explains strong climatic contrasts. The influence of the Mediterranean climate goes upstream on the Rhone valley and it spreads out in the South. Several plants of the Mediterranean flora are present. The holm oak extends far northward. Evergreen buckthorn, Rosemary, Scorpion's thorn, and Cupid's dart are present in the South. The most typical shrub for the moderate Mediterranean climate is the Terebinth. The Phoenician juniper colonizes lithosols and cliffs. On the hill zone, orchid-rich calcareous grasslands are frequent. Cretaceous calcareous rocks are in the continuation of the Urgonian Provençal platform. Lands were dug by streams (gorges of Ardèche) and water infiltration formed large subterranean networks. A volcanic activity happened in the third of the southeast calcareous area and also in a part of the rest of the department which corresponds to the crystalline base. This volcanic area extends from the border with the Lozère department (Southern limit of the Devès mountain) to the Eyrieux valley. Volcanism occurred in two periods: Miocene for the oldest one (Middle Miocene for the Mountain of Mézenc, i.e. about 12 million years ago, and Late Miocene for the Massif of Coiron, i.e. between 6 and 8 million years ago), and Pleistocene for the latest one (cantons of Thueyts and Montpezat-sous-Bauzon). Interesting phenomena of relief inversion can be observed. This is the case in the Coiron Massif which corresponds to ancient lava flows. After the last eruption, the basalt rock was isolated by erosion from the softer surrounding sedimentary rocks. The basalt plateau, which fills former riverbeds, appears lobbed on a map as an oak leaf. Several types of eruption occurred in each of these volcanic massifs. One of this type corresponds to an explosive phenomenon occurring when the magma, which moves upward, meets a groundwater. The explosion crater, called a maar, can be filled afterward by secondary lava flows or by water. The high content of silicates in maar lake waters favors the growth of unicellular planktonic algae of the Diatoms group, which elaborate a siliceous external skeleton. Skeletons of dead algae form sediments at the origin of a very light and very porous rock in which dead animals can be fossilized as mummies. Such a feature is very exceptional since it makes observable soft organs and integuments. Mummified fossils from the Coiron Massif are presented in the Paleontology Museum of Voulte-sur-Rhône.

 

History

The artefacts from Orgnac cave testify of Homo erectus's presence in the gorges of Ardèche, approximately 300,000 years ago (Acheulean hand-axes). Other more recent prehistoric sites show that the human presence has been continuous in the valleys of Rhone and of Ardèche. The most famous site is Chauvet's Cave which goes back to Aurignacian (about 30,000 years ago), period in the course of which assegais were more and more used for the hunting of big animals. Many dolmens from Chalcolithic (2000 B.C.) can be observed. The Gallic tribe of Helvii extended over a territory corresponding to the limits of the current department. When Rome extended its power over the province of Gallia Narbonensis, at the end of the 1st century B.C., this tribe became an ally of Rome and later they fought together Vercingetorix. In this time, the capital was Alba-la-Romaine which became the first bishop's palace of Ardèche during the IInd century. After the Vandals were destroying it, the episcopal see was moved 15 km further, to Viviers, which is a city named from its Latin name, Vivarium, because live baits were used for fishing in Rhone (vivare means "to be alive" in latin). The same etymology can be found in the name of the province under the Ancien Regime: Vivarais. After having belonged to the kingdom of Provence, then been a vassal county of the Holy Roman Empire, the Vivarais passed to the crown of France, in 1308, under Philippe le Bel. In the XVIth century, the new ideas of the Reformation came from Geneva and Lyon and quickly took root in Vivarais. The Religious wars began in 1562 and bathed this country in blood. Some villages were taken and plundered several times, both by Catholic war chiefs and Protestant war chiefs. The edict of Nantes restored peace for some times. Under Louis XIII, troubles were restarting, and, in 1629, the King and Richelieu destroyed Privas. The revocation of the Edict of Nante by Louis XIV entailed many Protestants to emigrate abroad. This exodus has impoverished the country, because Protestants were often industrious city-dwellers. Besides, the war of Camisards, which was a consequence of this event, looked like a war of partisans, with all the inherent cruelty. At the end of the XVIIIth century and at the beginning of the XIXth century, the sericulture grew with the development of many silk manufactures (called "magnaneries"). Tanneries are also prosperous. The peak of the population is reached in 1861. From this date till 1962, the department has got impoverished and it has lost inhabitants. The industrial development of the Rhone valley has boosted the development of lowlands. For some years, outdoor tourism is rapidly expanding.

 

Hiking characteristics

Ardèche presents several tourism attractions: interesting natural areas for geology, flora, or fauna (including subterranean fauna). The existence of prehistoric vestiges for a very long duration - since the end of the lower paleolithic - is exceptional in France. Concerning the historic time, the relevant point is the presence of many medieval castles. The landscapes of the South look like those of Provence. The traditional house of Southern Ardèche is a mas with a covered terrace supported by arches (the local name is "couradou"). The relief is often hilly, and it can also present cliffs which allow climbing practice. A via ferrata (iron way) has been installed near Thueyts. Canyoning and canoeing are very popular.

 

French Internet sites for outdoor activities

Trail riding, ski-joering and equestrian shows : La Bergerie du Plateau
Canyoning and caving : Light and Shadow
Guided hikes by a skilled team and with a very varied programme: La Burle
Fishing in clear waters of Ardèche, from beginners to advanced: freefishing07